Bergamot EO
Naturelle
Citrus > Zesty > Bergamot
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Citrus bergamia
Botanical profile :
Bergamot is the fruit of the bergamot tree, belonging to the Rutaceae family and the Citrus genus.
Geographic origin :
Bergamot is mainly grown in Calabria (100 tons/year), a region in southern Italy, Ivory Coast (15 tons/year) and South Africa.
Chemotypes :
The genus Citrus includes the vast majority of citrus fruits and includes a large number of varieties available in perfumery:
Bergamot - (Citrus bergamia) is a hybrid of lemon and bitter orange, grown for the essential oil of its fruit and petitgrain.
Bitter orange or bigarade orange - (Citrus aurantium), grown in Spain and Florida.
Citron - (Citrus medica), grown in Italy (Sicily).
Lemon - (Citrus limon), cultured in Italy for the essential oil of its fruit and of its leafy twigs (Petitgrain).
Combava - (Citrus hystrix), grown in Thailand and India.
Lime - (Citrus aurantifolia), grown for its fruit in Mexico for the most part.
Mandarin - (Citrus reticulata), grown mainly in Italy for its fruit and for its petitgrain, by extracting the leaves from the tree. Its hybrid with sweet orange gave birth to clementine.
Orange - (Citrus sinensis) is famous for the cultivation of its fruits, whose juice and essential oil are extracted in Brazil and California in particular, which is the most used of all perfumes.
Grapefruit - (Citrus paradisii) of Malay origin, is cultivated for its essential oil in Brazil and Israel in particular.
Yuzu - (Citrus junos), produced in Japan and Korea.
Bergamot - (Citrus bergamia) is a hybrid of lemon and bitter orange, grown for the essential oil of its fruit and petitgrain.
Bitter orange or bigarade orange - (Citrus aurantium), grown in Spain and Florida.
Citron - (Citrus medica), grown in Italy (Sicily).
Lemon - (Citrus limon), cultured in Italy for the essential oil of its fruit and of its leafy twigs (Petitgrain).
Combava - (Citrus hystrix), grown in Thailand and India.
Lime - (Citrus aurantifolia), grown for its fruit in Mexico for the most part.
Mandarin - (Citrus reticulata), grown mainly in Italy for its fruit and for its petitgrain, by extracting the leaves from the tree. Its hybrid with sweet orange gave birth to clementine.
Orange - (Citrus sinensis) is famous for the cultivation of its fruits, whose juice and essential oil are extracted in Brazil and California in particular, which is the most used of all perfumes.
Grapefruit - (Citrus paradisii) of Malay origin, is cultivated for its essential oil in Brazil and Israel in particular.
Yuzu - (Citrus junos), produced in Japan and Korea.
Extraction process :
Bergamot comes from the bergamot tree. First green then yellow, it is a citrus of about 80 to 200 grams. The harvest, done by hand (fruits are very sensitive), begins in November and ends around the end of January. The bergamots are stored for 2 to 3 days to warm them and soften the zest.
After that, the fruit is put in a sfumatrice to extract the essential oil (cold expression). The sfumatrice works by pricking all the zest of the fruit with needles in order to collect the essential oil and the zest debris. Then these two parts are washed away by a stream of water to a centrifuge. The purpose is to separate the oil from the water and the debris from the peel. Once this separation is done, the essential oil of raw bergamot is collected. The oil can also be obtained by separating the zest of the fruit in a peeler machine and by steam distilling the zest. This essential oil is called ''distilled bergamot '' or ''Cold expressed Bergamot ''.
The cold expression yield is approximately 0.5%.
An extraction with a volatile solvent gives a yield of 4%. The essential oil must be rectified to remove the bergaptenens, which are photosensitizers. This rectification can also be used to isolate terpenes or other compounds from the bergamot.
The oul quality varies according to the harvest months: more floral in November (higher presence of linalool) and cooler in January (higher presence of linalyl acetate). There is also a ''black bergamot '' which is an extraction of the zest of an overripe fruit fallen from the tree during the winter whose zest has become black.
After that, the fruit is put in a sfumatrice to extract the essential oil (cold expression). The sfumatrice works by pricking all the zest of the fruit with needles in order to collect the essential oil and the zest debris. Then these two parts are washed away by a stream of water to a centrifuge. The purpose is to separate the oil from the water and the debris from the peel. Once this separation is done, the essential oil of raw bergamot is collected. The oil can also be obtained by separating the zest of the fruit in a peeler machine and by steam distilling the zest. This essential oil is called ''distilled bergamot '' or ''Cold expressed Bergamot ''.
The cold expression yield is approximately 0.5%.
An extraction with a volatile solvent gives a yield of 4%. The essential oil must be rectified to remove the bergaptenens, which are photosensitizers. This rectification can also be used to isolate terpenes or other compounds from the bergamot.
The oul quality varies according to the harvest months: more floral in November (higher presence of linalool) and cooler in January (higher presence of linalyl acetate). There is also a ''black bergamot '' which is an extraction of the zest of an overripe fruit fallen from the tree during the winter whose zest has become black.
Major Components :
D-Limonene (35-40%)
Linalyl Acetate (25-30%)
Linalool (≈20%)
Gamma-Terpinene (≈6%)
Beta-Pinene (≈4%)
Sabinene (≈4%)
Linalyl Acetate (25-30%)
Linalool (≈20%)
Gamma-Terpinene (≈6%)
Beta-Pinene (≈4%)
Sabinene (≈4%)
- Uses in perfumery :
- Used in eaux fraîches, colognes, chypre accords (with Bergamote EO, Patchouli EO, Cistus EO, Cistus Labdanum Absolute Green and Oak Moss Absolute). Brings freshness to the head and lightens oriental notes.
- Other comments :
- The essential oil of bergamot is often called ''bergapten-free '' as the oil used in perfumery can only be used once all the bergaptenes has been removed.
Citrus currently suffer from a disease called ''citrus greening ''. This disease is deadly for citrus fruits and no treatment exists. It is transmitted by a vector insect that attacks young shoots: the psylla. This results in the premature death of many trees and therefore the decline in the general production of the essential oil and its quality (reduction of the Limonene level). - Volatility :
- Head
- Appearance :
- Pale yellow to green liquid
- Stability :
- Solubility issues in perfumes
Citruses tend to fade through time in perfumes
Limonene tends to convert into Carvone through time, and to give a minthy note to the oil
The esters identified in this raw material can form their corresponding acid in stability tests
The terpenes identified in this raw material can polymerize when they are oxidized - Price Range :
- €€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
The essential oil of bergamot has antiseptic, soothing and anti-spasmodic properties. It is recommended in case of aerocolie (volume increase of the colon) and insomnia.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 296-429-8
- FEMA number :
- 2153
- Allergens :
- D-Limonene - Linalool
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is restricted by IFRA
- Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION
- Cause of restriction :
- PHOTOTOXICITY
- Amendment :
- 49
- Comments :
- The Standard is set due to the phototoxic effects of Bergamot oil expressed. For more detailed information on the application of this Standard, please refer to the note on phototoxic ingredients in Chapter 1 of the Guidance for the use of IFRA Standards. If the level of furocoumarins is unknown, the restriction level specified in this IFRA Standard applies. Combination effects of phototoxic ingredients are only taken into consideration for the furocoumarin-containing fragrance ingredients (extracts) listed in the IFRA Standard of Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils. If combinations of furocoumarin-containing phototoxic fragrance ingredients (extracts) are used, the use levels must be reduced accordingly. The sum of the concentrations of all furocoumarin-containing phototoxic fragrance ingredients (extracts), expressed in of their recommended upper concentration level in the consumer product shall not exceed 100. For qualities of the expressed oil in which the less volatile components have been concentrated by partial or total removal of the terpene fraction, this limit should be reduced in proportion to the degree of concentration.
- Quantitative limit on the use :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5A Cat.5B Cat.5C Cat.5D Cat.6 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % 0,4 % Cat.7A Cat.7B Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10A Cat.10B Cat.11A Cat.11B Cat.12 No Restriction 0,4 % 0,4 % No Restriction No Restriction 0,4 % No Restriction 0,4 % No Restriction - Annexe I :
- Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here they are :
- Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION NON QRA
- Cause of restriction :
- PHOTOTOXICITY
- Amendment :
- 48
- Comments :
- The limit only applies to applications on skin exposed to sunshine, excluding rinse-off products (please refer to Table 4 of the QRA booklet for more detailed information). If combinations of phototoxic fragrance ingredients are used, the use levels have to be reduced accordingly. The sum of the concentrations of all phototoxic ingredients, expressed in % of their recommended maximum level in the consumer product shall not exceed 100. Note: See remark on phototoxic ingredients in the Introduction to the IFRA Standards (Appendix 8 to the IFRA Code of Practice) and the Standard on Citrus oil and other furocoumarins-containing essential oils. For qualities of the expressed oil in which less volatile components have been concentrated by partial or total removal of the terpene fraction, this limit should be reduced in proportion to the degree of concentration.
- Annexe I :
- Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here they are :
| List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient | ||
|---|---|---|
| Regulated ingredient name | CAS N° | Estimated Concentration |
| Geraniol | 106-24-1 | 0,1 |
| 7-Methoxycoumarin | 531-59-9 | 0,01 |
| Citral | 5392-40-5 | 0,7 |
| Skin contact products | Non skin contact products | |
|---|---|---|
| Leave on products | Rinse off products | |
| 0,4 % | X | X |
| List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient | ||
|---|---|---|
| Regulated ingredient name | CAS N° | Estimated Concentration |
| Geraniol | 106-24-1 | 0,1 |
| 7-Methoxycoumarin | 531-59-9 | 0,01 |
| Citral | 5392-40-5 | 0,7 |
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.
