Sambac Jasmine Absolute
Naturelle
Floral > White Flowers > Jasmine > Solar > Animalic
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton
Botanical profile :
Jasminum, whether it be sambac, grandiflorum, or auriculatum, is a white-flowered shrub that can grow from 1 to 3 meters in height and form hedges in fields of cultivation. It belongs to the family Oleaceae and the genus Jasmimum.
Geographic origin :
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton is mainly cultivated in India, which accounts for nearly 90% of the worldwide production volume. The states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu are the main production centers, with Madurai being the ''jasmine capital '' and the only region in the world with a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for jasmine sambac. Other countries such as Egypt or France also contribute to the world production of this species. It should be noted that jasmine sambac from China is increasingly available on the market, although its use is still largely restricted to traditional medicine or tea flavoring.
Chemotypes :
In perfumery, two varieties of jasmine are mainly used:
Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute / Jasmine Grandiflorum Concrete) found for example in Grasse or Egypt.
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton (Jasmine Sambac Absolute / Jasmine Sambac Concrete) mostly cultivated in India.
These two varieties are easily recognizable as grandiflorum has large and rounded flowers while those of sambac are thinner and longer.
Two other species are also grown for perfumery, in smaller proportions:
Jasminum asteroides
Jasminum auriculatum Vahl (Jasmine Auriculatum Absolute / Jasmine Auriculatum Concrete) mainly cultivated in India.
Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute / Jasmine Grandiflorum Concrete) found for example in Grasse or Egypt.
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton (Jasmine Sambac Absolute / Jasmine Sambac Concrete) mostly cultivated in India.
These two varieties are easily recognizable as grandiflorum has large and rounded flowers while those of sambac are thinner and longer.
Two other species are also grown for perfumery, in smaller proportions:
Jasminum asteroides
Jasminum auriculatum Vahl (Jasmine Auriculatum Absolute / Jasmine Auriculatum Concrete) mainly cultivated in India.
Extraction process :
The jasmine sambac flower, also known as ''White gold '' in India, is usually harvested from March to September. These flowers are handpicked at sunrise and must be processed within the day because once separated from the shrub, they can only survive for a few hours. The flower buds are then transported to the factory, and a resting phase of approximately 1 to 2 hours allows for the aeration and opening of the buds. At this moment, the jasmine flowers can be processed.
Formerly extracted using the enfleurage technique, the flower is now mainly processed with volatile solvents. This extraction is carried out using hexane. The flowers macerate in the solvent for 10 to 12 hours until exhausted. They are then removed from the extractor, and the solvent is evaporated. This produces a waxy, greenish-orange paste, the Jasmine Sambac Concrete (yielding 0.1 to 0.2% from fresh flowers).
In most cases, the extraction does not stop there and goes on to obtain the Jasmin Sambac Absolute through a succession of steps: alcohol glazing, wax filtration, and alcohol evaporation. The yield of such a product is then less than 0.1% from fresh flowers.
At this stage, molecular distillation may practiced to match regulatory or olfactory requirement. The result is a Jasmin Sambac Absolute DM.
As is the case with many flowers, the harvesting period has a significant influence on the scent. For Jasmin Sambac, it is known that jasmine flowers harvested in spring (March-May) are much greener and more vibrant because of an higher farnesene content , while those harvested in autumn (September-October) are more animalic and dense because of indole content.
Formerly extracted using the enfleurage technique, the flower is now mainly processed with volatile solvents. This extraction is carried out using hexane. The flowers macerate in the solvent for 10 to 12 hours until exhausted. They are then removed from the extractor, and the solvent is evaporated. This produces a waxy, greenish-orange paste, the Jasmine Sambac Concrete (yielding 0.1 to 0.2% from fresh flowers).
In most cases, the extraction does not stop there and goes on to obtain the Jasmin Sambac Absolute through a succession of steps: alcohol glazing, wax filtration, and alcohol evaporation. The yield of such a product is then less than 0.1% from fresh flowers.
At this stage, molecular distillation may practiced to match regulatory or olfactory requirement. The result is a Jasmin Sambac Absolute DM.
As is the case with many flowers, the harvesting period has a significant influence on the scent. For Jasmin Sambac, it is known that jasmine flowers harvested in spring (March-May) are much greener and more vibrant because of an higher farnesene content , while those harvested in autumn (September-October) are more animalic and dense because of indole content.
Major Components :
Farnesene (20-25%)
Benzyl Acetate (15-20%)
Methyl Linoleate (≈13%)
Linalool (≈15%)
Methyl Anthranilate (≈8%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate (≈8%)
Benzyl Alcohol (≈7%)
Germacrene-D (≈4%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate (≈2%)
Phenylacetonitrile (≈2%)
Indole (≈2%)
Benzyl Acetate (15-20%)
Methyl Linoleate (≈13%)
Linalool (≈15%)
Methyl Anthranilate (≈8%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate (≈8%)
Benzyl Alcohol (≈7%)
Germacrene-D (≈4%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate (≈2%)
Phenylacetonitrile (≈2%)
Indole (≈2%)
- Uses in perfumery :
- f
- Other comments :
- While Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute) has been used by perfumers since the beginning of perfumery, Jasminum sambac L. only gained popularity in the 1980s. Although the absolute is produced in relatively large volumes compared to other flowers, it represents only a small part of the global market for jasmine (~10%). Indeed, the main part of the flowers are reserved for religious ceremonies, decoration, divine offers, ornaments, or in women's hairstyles. This flower is also the queen of weddings.
In Sanskrit, one of India's official languages, ''Sambac '' means ''hauting perfume. '' Jasmine is also the national flower of Indonesia, despite cultivation there is quite rare.
The cultivation of Jasminum sambac L. is subject to thrips invasions (small insects attacking the leaves), moths, and nematodes (attacking the roots).
The scent of Jasminum sambac L. is greener due to its high level of Farnesene. The scent of Egyptian jasmine is more fruity and sweet. Indian jasmine, on the other hand, is more jammy, gourmand and petal-like. - Volatility :
- Heart
- Appearance :
- Yellow to orange liquid
- Stability :
- Terpens found in this extract are subjected to polymerization under high oxydation.
Esters found in this extract may form their corresponding acid under the effect of heat.
The presence of Methyl Anthranilate can cause coloration of the extract when in contact with aldehydes and ketones, forming Schiff bases. - Price Range :
- €€€€€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
Jasmine is used to reduce stress and anxiety, tensions, depression and fatigue. It can also be used as an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory agent.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 292-797-4
- FEMA number :
- 2598
- Allergens :
- Linalool - Benzyl Benzoate - Eugenol
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is restricted by IFRA
- Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION
- Cause of restriction :
- DERMAL SENSITIZATION
- Amendment :
- 49
- Quantitative limit on the use :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5A Cat.5B Cat.5C Cat.5D Cat.6 0,68 % 0,2 % 4,1 % 3,8 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 2,2 % Cat.7A Cat.7B Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10A Cat.10B Cat.11A Cat.11B Cat.12 7,7 % 7,7 % 0,4 % 7,4 % 26 % 26 % 15 % 15 % No Restriction - Annexe I :
- Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here they are :
- Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION QRA
- Cause of restriction :
- Amendment :
- 43
- Quantitative usage limits :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5 Cat.6 Cat.7 Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10 Cat.11 0,25 % 0,32 % 1,33 % 4 % 2,1 % 6,4 % 0,7 % 2 % 5 % 2,5 % Not Restricted - Annexe I :
- Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here they are :
| List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient | ||
|---|---|---|
| Regulated ingredient name | CAS N° | Estimated Concentration |
| Benzyl alcohol | 100-51-6 | 8 |
| Cinnamic alcohol | 104-54-1 | 0,15 |
| Benzyl salicylate | 118-58-1 | 0,2 |
| Benzyl benzoate | 120-51-4 | 0,75 |
| Benzyl cyanide | 140-29-4 | 1,2 |
| Methyl N-formylanthranilate | 41270-80-8 | 0,05 |
| Farnesol | 4602-84-0 | 0,6 |
| List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient | ||
|---|---|---|
| Regulated ingredient name | CAS N° | Estimated Concentration |
| Benzyl alcohol | 100-51-6 | 8 |
| Cinnamic alcohol | 104-54-1 | 0,15 |
| Benzyl salicylate | 118-58-1 | 0,2 |
| Benzyl benzoate | 120-51-4 | 0,75 |
| Benzyl cyanide | 140-29-4 | 1,2 |
| Methyl N-formylanthranilate | 41270-80-8 | 0,05 |
| Farnesol | 4602-84-0 | 0,6 |
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.
