Styrax EO Pyrogenated
Naturelle
Balsamic Ambery > Balsamic > Burnt > Leather > Plastic
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Liquidambar orientalis
Botanical profile :
Styrax is a tree of the Hammamelidae family and the genus Liquidambar.
Geographic origin :
Native to Asia Minor, styrax is a tree now grown in Turkey and Central America (particularly in Honduras)
Chemotypes :
The genus Liquidambar has two major species cultivated for perfumery:
The Liquidambar styraciflua (present in Latin America, especially in Honduras) naturally exudes the resin. Its composition is richer in Beta-Caryophyllene.
The Liquidambar orientalis (present in Turkey) must be hammered to exude the resin.
Two other species can be used in perfumery, but on a smaller scale:
The Liquidambar formosana, or Formosan sweetgum, from China.
The Liquidambar acalycina, also from China (South of the country).
The Liquidambar styraciflua (present in Latin America, especially in Honduras) naturally exudes the resin. Its composition is richer in Beta-Caryophyllene.
The Liquidambar orientalis (present in Turkey) must be hammered to exude the resin.
Two other species can be used in perfumery, but on a smaller scale:
The Liquidambar formosana, or Formosan sweetgum, from China.
The Liquidambar acalycina, also from China (South of the country).
Extraction process :
Styrax is a medium-sized tree that secretes a resin in its sapwood (the youngest part of a tree) and its bark.
The resin is naturally secreted by the trees but its secretion can be accelerated by an incision or voluntary hammering of the tree. After a month drying on the tree, the resin is collected to be extracted by steam distillation after filtration.
The drying hardens the resin, which turns brown due to oxidation. To obtain Styrax EO Pyrogenated, the process is globally the same as for Birch Rectified EO or Cade EO. The resin is placed in an oven and heated at a very high temperature (around 800°C). The resin sweats. Vapors are condensed in a condensor to get only a sort of tar. This very pasty substance contains carcinogenic copounds and need to be rectified. Thank to a low pressure distillation, the color of the oil is partially taken away and carcinogenic compounds are removed to get the resulting EO pyrogenated.
Styrax EO is obtaines thanks to a classic steam distillation and Styrax Resinoid is the result of an extraction with organic solvents. There is also a CO2 extract of Styrax, which gives it a higher olfactory quality, but is more expensive.
The leaves of the tree can also be extracted, to obtain an essential oil whose composition is more volatile and smell is very terpenic.
The resin is naturally secreted by the trees but its secretion can be accelerated by an incision or voluntary hammering of the tree. After a month drying on the tree, the resin is collected to be extracted by steam distillation after filtration.
The drying hardens the resin, which turns brown due to oxidation. To obtain Styrax EO Pyrogenated, the process is globally the same as for Birch Rectified EO or Cade EO. The resin is placed in an oven and heated at a very high temperature (around 800°C). The resin sweats. Vapors are condensed in a condensor to get only a sort of tar. This very pasty substance contains carcinogenic copounds and need to be rectified. Thank to a low pressure distillation, the color of the oil is partially taken away and carcinogenic compounds are removed to get the resulting EO pyrogenated.
Styrax EO is obtaines thanks to a classic steam distillation and Styrax Resinoid is the result of an extraction with organic solvents. There is also a CO2 extract of Styrax, which gives it a higher olfactory quality, but is more expensive.
The leaves of the tree can also be extracted, to obtain an essential oil whose composition is more volatile and smell is very terpenic.
Major Components :
Data not available.
- Uses in perfumery :
- Pyrogenated styrax is used in fine fragrance for leather accords, to be included in the typical scheme of some oriental and chypre perfumes, and for white flowers accords. It brings a more pyrogenic and leathery note than other styrax extracts.
- Other comments :
- Globally, Styrax EO Pyrogenated is used to bring a smoky woods aspect to leather compositions, Styrax EO for its white flowers facet and Styrax Resinoid for an animalic note.
The fragrant ambered resin secreted by the tree is intended to heal the bark in case of incision or natural injury. In ancient Egypt, Styrax was used for fumigations as an offering to the gods, as well as myrrh and khyphi.
Styrax is sometimes called storax, as it was in the old days. - Volatility :
- Base
- Appearance :
- Viscous amber liquid
- Stability :
- Solubility issues in perfumes
Aromatic compounds can be chromophoric and cause a coloration of the oil, especially in alkaline bases - Price Range :
- €€€€€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
Styrax resin is known for its antitussive properties (cough) and is therefore recommended for bronchitis.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 305-627-6
- FEMA number :
- 3037
- Allergens :
- Cinnamyl Alcohol - Cinnamaldehyde - Benzyl Cinnamate
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is restricted by IFRA
- Restriction type :
- PROHIBITION_RESTRICTION_SPECIFICATION
- Cause of restriction :
- DERMAL SENSITIZATION
- Amendment :
- 49
- Comments :
- Crude gums of Liquidambar styraficula L. var. macrophylla or Liquidambar orientalis Mill. should not be used as fragrance ingredients for any finished product application. Only extracts or distillates (resinoids, absolutes and oils), prepared from exudations of Liquidambar styraciflua L. var. macrophylla or Liquidambar orientalis Mill., can be used. Styrax oil can be obtained from solvent extraction or pyrolysis. Styrax oil obtained through pyrolysis shall be rectified according to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and the content of Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) resulting from their use shall respect the following requirement: Benzopyrene and 1,2-Benzanthracene are to be used as markers for PAH. If used alone or in combination with rectified Cade oil, rectified Birch tar oils or rectified Opoponax oil, the total concentration of both of the markers should not exceed 1 ppb in the final product.
- Quantitative limit on the use :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5A Cat.5B Cat.5C Cat.5D Cat.6 0,12 % 0,034 % 0,69 % 0,64 % 0,16 % 0,16 % 0,16 % 0,16 % 0,38 % Cat.7A Cat.7B Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10A Cat.10B Cat.11A Cat.11B Cat.12 1,3 % 1,3 % 0,068 % 1,3 % 4,5 % 4,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 % No Restriction - Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION QRA
- Cause of restriction :
- SENSITIZATION
- Amendment :
- 47
- Comments :
- Crude gums of Liquidambar styraficula L. var. macrophylla or Liquidambar orientalis Mill. should not be used as fragrance ingredients: Only extracts or distillates (resinoids, absolutes and oils), prepared from exudations of Liquidambar styraciflua L. var. macrophylla or Liquidambar orientalis Mill., can be used.This recommendation is made in order to promote good manufacturing practice (GMP) for the use of styrax derivatives as fragrance ingredients. It is based on a wide variety of RIFM test data with gums, resinoids, absolutes and oils of American and Asian styrax (private communication to IFRA). In addition, Styrax oil can be obtained from solvent extraction or pyrolysis. Styrax oil obtained through pyrolysis shall be rectified according to Good Manufacturing Practices and the content of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) resulting from their use shall respect the following requirement: Benzopyrene and 1,2-Benzanthracene are to be used as markers for PAH. If used alone or in combination with rectified Cade oil, rectified Birch tar oils or rectified Opoponax oil, the total concentration of both of the markers should not exceed 1 ppb in the final product.
- Quantitative usage limits :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5 Cat.6 Cat.7 Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10 Cat.11 0,04 % 0,05 % 0,23 % 0,6 % 0,36 % 0,6 % 0,11 % 0,6 % 0,6 % 0,6 % Not Restricted
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
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